Following the River Otter on a Gentle Riverside Walk

Why the River Otter Rewards a Slow Pace

The River Otter rises in the Blackdown Hills near the Somerset–Devon border and runs for roughly twenty miles south to the sea at Budleigh Salterton. For much of that journey it slips through a shallow, well-wooded valley where the walking is genuinely kind: few punishing climbs, generous shade in summer, and a path that keeps the water within sight or earshot for long stretches.

That combination makes it ideal for anyone who wants a riverside walk rather than a fell-bagging expedition. The river is modest in width — you can often see clear to the gravel bed — which means whatever passes along it tends to pass close. A kingfisher isn't a distant speck here; it's a dart of colour a few feet away. And because the valley floor is largely flat, you can cover a decent distance without feeling you've earned a medal, leaving plenty of breath for conversation and a flask.

Setting Off: Route, Surface and Distance

A lovely there-and-back section runs for around four miles from the village of Otterton down towards the outskirts of Budleigh Salterton, and it works equally well in either direction. Much of it follows the course of an old railway line, which explains the gentle gradients and the generous width of the path — a legacy that suits walkers, wheelchairs, buggies and dogs alike.

The surface is a mix of compacted gravel, earth and the occasional tarmac stretch. Underfoot it's generally firm, though after a wet Devon winter the riverside sections can turn genuinely muddy, so don't wear your best white trainers in February.

• Distance: roughly four miles each way; allow two to three hours with stops.
• Gradients: mostly flat, with a couple of short rises where the path lifts away from the water.
• Gates and stiles: a handful of gates, but no awkward stiles on the main route.
• Facilities: a pub and a café near Otterton, and more options at the Budleigh Salterton end.

Wildlife to Watch For

The Otter is one of the best rivers in southern England for spotting wildlife, partly because its valley is quiet and partly because the water is clean enough to support a proper food chain. Go slowly and keep your eyes on the shaded banks rather than the middle of the channel — that's where the action is.

• Kingfishers: look for a low, fast, straight-line flight and a flash of electric blue. Sit still by a bend for ten minutes and you may well get a second pass.
• Otters: genuinely present, genuinely elusive. Dawn and dusk are your best bets; listen for a distinctive sharp whistle.
• Dippers: plump, dark brown birds that walk underwater along the shallows. Unmistakable once seen.
• Grey wagtails and herons: almost guaranteed. The wagtails bob along the stones; the herons stand like statues in the margins.
• Beavers: the Otter holds a wild breeding population. Look for pencil-sharpened stumps, stripped bark and low dams on side channels.

Bring binoculars if you have them, but keep them in your bag for the first mile — you'll see more by simply walking quietly than by stopping every thirty yards to scan.

Reading the River: Bends, Willows and Tea Stops

Rivers are at their most interesting where they turn. Every meander on the Otter creates a deep outer bank and a shallow inner one, and that difference shapes everything: gravel shoals where wagtails feed, undercut banks where otters holt, and the quiet backwaters where fish fry gather.

The willows deserve their own mention. Old pollarded trees lean out over the water at improbable angles, their trailing branches brushing the surface and creating dark, sheltered pools. These are the spots to linger at. Find a bend with a fallen trunk or a patch of flat grass above the water, settle down, and get the flask out. There's something about tea drunk beside a river that no café can replicate — the steam, the smell of damp leaf mould, the sound of water working over stones.

If you'd rather have a bench, the path has a few, typically positioned where the valley opens up and you can see two or three bends at once. Shelter from the wind is better on the wooded sections than on the open meadow stretches, so plan your break accordingly on a blustery day.

When to Go and What to Take

Each season offers something different. Spring brings the valley alive with birdsong and fresh, pale-green leaves. Summer is lush and shaded, though the nettles along the margins grow tall and shorts are a gamble. Autumn is arguably the finest time: low golden light, mist over the water in the early morning, and fewer people about. Winter gives you bare branches — which means you can actually see the birds — and the best chance of spotting otters in daylight, but the mud is at its worst.

• Footwear: waterproof boots or sturdy shoes with grip from October to April.
• Layers: the valley is cooler and damper than the surrounding hills, even in summer.
• Extras: flask, binoculars, a sit mat, and a spare socks-and-towel combination if you're walking with children.
• Dogs: welcome on most of the route, but keep them out of the water in spring when spawning fish and nesting birds are vulnerable.

Making a Longer Day of It

If four miles isn't enough, the route links naturally onwards to Budleigh Salterton, where the river meets the sea and you can pick up the South West Coast Path for a cliff-top loop back. Alternatively, wander inland from Otterton towards the village of Colaton Raleigh for a change of scene and a few more miles of quiet lanes.

Whichever you choose, the principle stays the same: walk slowly, stop often, and let the river set the pace. The Otter rewards patience far more than distance.